and lighted with windows. Later still, similar Perpendicular windows
were placed in the old nave, the Norman clerestory was destroyed and a
new one built, together with a new wooden roof and the great western
window was inserted. In 1830 Cottingham, and in 1871 Scott, worked
their wills upon the place under the plea of restoration. Little has
escaped their attention, neither the beautiful Decorated tomb of
Bishop Walter de Merton (1278) nor that of Bishop John de Sheppey
(1360). The best thing left to us in the Cathedral and that which
gives it its character is the great western doorway with its sombre
Norman carving of the earlier part of the twelfth century. The nave is
also beautiful and the crypt is undoubtedly one of the most
interesting monuments left in England. Of the Priory practically
nothing remains but a few fragments.

[Illustration: ROCHESTER]

Doubtless Chaucer and his company did not leave the great church
unvisited nor fail to look curiously, nor perhaps to pray, at the
shrine of St William, for they, too, were travellers and pilgrims. But
the spectacle in the little city which it might seem most filled their
imagination, as it does ours, was not the Cathedral at all, but the
great Keep which stands above it, frowning across the busy Medway.
Nothing more imposing of its kind than this great Norman Castle remains
in England. Having a base of seventy feet square, and consisting of
walls twelve feet thick and one hundred and twenty feet high, it still
seems what in fact it was, almost impregnable by any arms but those of
the modern world. Its great weakness lay always in the matter of
provision, but it was perfectly supplied with water, by means of a well
sixty feet under ground, in which stood always ten feet of water. From
this well a stone pipe or tunnel, two feet nine inches in diameter, led