Departure from Gibraltar to Mogador.--The Straits.--Genoese Sailors.--
Trade-wind Hurricanes en the Atlantic Coast of Morocco.--Difficulties of
entering the Port of Mogador.--Bad provisioning of Foreign
Merchantmen.--The present Representative of the once far-famed and
dreaded Rovers.--Disembarkation at Mogador.--Mr. Phillips, Captain of
the Port--Rumours amongst the People about my Mission.--Visit to the
Cemeteries.--Maroquine Wreckers.--Health of the inhabitants of
Mogador.--Moorish Cavaliers "playing at powder" composed of the ancient
Nuraidians.--The Barb.--The Life Guards of the Moorish Emperor.--Martial
character of the Negro.--Some account of the Black Corps of the
Shereefs.--Orthodoxy of the Shereefs, and illustrative anecdotes of the
various Emperors.


On leaving the Straits (commonly called "The Gut,") a noble sight
presented itself--a fleet of some hundred merchantmen, all smacking
about before the rising wind, crowding every sail, lest it should change
ere they got clear of the obstructive straits. Many weeks had they been
detained by the westerly gales, and our vessel amongst the rest. I felt
the poignant misery of "waiting for the wind." I know nothing so
wearisome when all things are made ready. It is worse than hope
deferred, which sickens and saddens the heart.

I have lately seen some newspaper reports, that government is preparing
a couple of steam-tugs, to be placed at the mouth of the straits, to tow
ships in and out. We may trust it will be done. But if government do it
not, I am sure it would answer the purpose of a private company, and I
have no doubt such speculation will soon be taken up. Vessels freighted
with perishable cargoes are often obliged to wait weeks, nay months, at
the mouth of the Straits, to the great injury of commerce. In our days