The fort of Dir is of stone, but in decay; it has an ancient aspect,
but this applies still more to the village of Ariankot, which occupies
the flat top of a low spur detached from the fort by a small stream.
The spurs fall in perpendicular cliffs of some 20 feet in height, and
in these are traces of numerous caves similar to those already spoken
of, and some of which are still used as dwellings by the Balti people,
who come to take service as porters between Dir and Chitral. The
population of the fort and valley exceeds 6,000 souls.

Four more days were wasted by our party at Dir procuring carriers, as
the Lowarai Pass (called Lohari by some) was not sufficiently clear of
snow to admit of our baggage animals crossing it, and from all accounts
brought in would not be so for another month. This decided us on
procuring the services of Baltis, who had come from Daroshp and
Chitral, and who preferred their wages being paid in cloths or salt to
sums of money. I should here add that my companions had in the
meanwhile received letters from the neighbourhood of Asmar, advising
them not to pay a visit to Arnawai just then, as the rumours concerning
us were not very favourable; so, rather than remain where we were, I
suggested visiting Chitral. The idea was adopted, the loads were made
over to the men we had engaged, and the following morning we bade adieu
to Rahmatullah Khan, and started for Mirga, elevation 8,400 feet.
Though the distance from Mirga to Ashreth is not more than ten miles,
yet it took us almost as many hours to accomplish it. From Mirga to the
Lowarai Kotal (elevation 10,450 feet) the route lay over snow. It is
quite true what has formerly been related of the number of cairns on
this pass, marking the burial of Mahommedan travellers who have been
killed by the Kafir banditti, who cross the Kunar river and attack
travellers on the road. Travellers as they pass throw stones upon those
cairns, a method universal among the Pathans in such cases. But many