narrow gorge, over which a wall was built more than two centuries ago
to resist an attempted invasion by the troops of Jehangir. Up to this
point the Mogul force are said to have brought their elephants, but
finding it here impracticable to pass they turned back: this force came
over the Lowarai Pass. The ascent from Jalalabad is impracticable,
because the river runs in various places between Asmar and Chigar Serai
in almost impassable gorges.

It was late in the evening when we arrived at Chitral, but as the
Badshah was not feeling very well, beyond the usual salutations
exchanged with Hosein Shah and Sahib Gul, all introductions were
deferred till the following morning.

The following morning, before presenting ourselves to Aman ul Mulk, we
sent him the following presents, viz., a Waziri horse, two revolvers, a
pair of binoculars, several pieces of chintz and linen, twenty pounds
of tea, sugar, salt, and several pairs of shoes of Peshawar
manufacture, as well as trinkets for his zenana. After the preliminary
and formal inquiries as to our health, the Mehter Sahib, or Badshah,
alluded to the rumours regarding me, and wound up by saying that as he
was a friend to the British, and his country at their disposal, I was
at liberty to go about and do as I pleased, provided none of my
followers accompanied me. Fortunately, our Indian Government think
differently, and judge his character more correctly. This was not
exactly what we had expected, but rather than be thwarted in the one
object I had come for, a consent was given to his proposal; but before
we had fairly got back to our quarters, a message was sent us, saying
that the passes into Kafiristan were not open just then; our reply was
that in that case we should return immediately to India. He then sent
for Sahib Gul, and eventually it was decided that I should defer my