became Pau.

Its commanding position and appearance inspired confidence, and
houses soon sprang up around; and, at least a century before the
birth of Henry IV., Pau had become an important place. In time it
became the capital of the kingdom of Navarre, and later, when
Navarre, Bearn, and the "Pays Basques" were constituted as one
department in 1790, it still retained its position as chief town.

Now to resume our inspection from the bridge. The two towers in
full view on either side of the sculptured façade, are the finest
and most prominent of the six that flank the castle, but there is
one in the interior of the court of more interest. The highest of
these two is the donjon on the left, built of brick, and known as
"La Tour de Gaston Phoebus" (112 feet). Its walls are over eight
feet in thickness. The tower on the right is known as "La Tour
Neuve," while the most interesting is that known as "La Tour de
Montaüset" or "Monte-Oiseau," in which are the ancient dungeons and
oubliettes. The porter has rooms on the ground-floor of the Gaston
Phoebus Tower, and his wife sells photographs singly and in books.
Outside, underneath and adjoining the same tower, is a small modern
(1843) chapel.

The hours for visiting the interior of the Château are between 10
and 12 and 2 and 4 daily, and the entrance is free, though the
guide expects a gratuity, say of one franc for one person, two
francs for three. As we were always lucky enough to be the only
people wanting to inspect, at the particular hour we went--which
was always as near ten as possible--we managed by judicious means
to calm the impetuosity of the guide, and induce him to tell his