CHAPTER IX.

FROM LUZ AND ST. SAUVEUR TO BAGNÈRES DE LUCHON.

A smiling valley--Lourdes again--The chapel in the crypt--St. Peter's
statue--Burnished toes--Solemn quietude--Preparing for the great
pilgrimage--"Ornamented" crosses--Mr. Sydney's new vocation, "Guide,
Philosopher, and Friend"--Bigorre again--An open-air concert
--Harmonious echoes--Paying through the nose--The fête at
Payole--Sport à la française--Costumes--The view from the Col
d'Aspin--Arreau--Quaint houses--La Chapelle de St. Exupère--A whining
"gardien"--Eglise de Notre Dame--The river Neste--Hôtel de
France--Bordères--Avajan--Louderville--Oxslips and cowslips--Wild
narcissus--Col de Peyresourde--The view--Garin--Cazaux--St.
Aventin--Lovely avenues--Our destination


CHAPTER X.

BAGNÈRES DE LUCHON.

The bathing establishment and its surroundings--The lovely
_Allées_--Montauban church and cascade--The Villa Russe and its
genial host--Various excursions--Orphanage of Notre Dame de
Rocher--The Vallée du Lys--The Rue d'Enfer and cascades--A lively
scene--The view from Superbagnères--Loading wood--"The Oxen's
Appeal"--Visit to the Orphanage--A "holy" relic--To Bosost--St.
Mamet--"A stumbling-block"--Cascade of Sidonie--Horse tricks and