which, if only brick without, was all glorious within, "in raiment of
needlework" and "wrought gold." And outside, the delicate tracery of the
cornice was like a border of embroidery upon the sombre surface; the
sculptured marble doorway was of surpassing richness, and the airy grace
of the campanile detached itself against the entrancing blue of the sky,
as one of those points of beauty for which Venice is memorable.

Usually this small square, remote from the centres of traffic as from
the homes of the nobility, seemed scarcely more than a landing-place for
the gondolas which were constantly bringing visitors and worshippers
thither, as to a shrine; for this church was a sort of memorial abbey to
the illustrious dead of Venice,--her Doges, her generals, her artists,
her heads of noble families,--and the monuments were in keeping with all
its sumptuous decorations, for the Frati Minori of the convent to which
it belonged--just across the narrow lane at the side of the church--were
both rich and generous, and many of its gifts and furnishings reflected
the highest art to which modern Venice had attained. Between the
wonderful, mystic, Eastern glory of San Marco, all shadows and
symbolisms and harmonies, and the positive, realistic assertions,
aesthetic and spiritual, of the Frari, lay the entire reach of the art
and religion of the Most Serene Republic.

The church was ancient enough to be a treasure-house for the historian,
and it had been restored, with much magnificence, less than a century
before,--which was modern for Venice,--while innumerable gifts had
brought its treasures down to the days of Titian and Tintoret.

To-day the people were coming in throngs, as to a _festa_, on foot from
under the Portico di Zen, across the little marble bridge which spanned
the narrow canal; on foot also from the network of narrow paved lanes,