and freshness. The younger--always supposing it has just come to
maturity--and fresher the vegetable, the quicker it cooks.

It should not be forgotten that orthodox cooks put all green and root
vegetables, except potatoes, to cook in _boiling_ water. This rule should
not be neglected when steaming vegetables--the water should be fast
boiling.

I will conclude with a few remarks about preparing greens, cauliflowers,
etc. The general practice is to soak them in cold salted water with the
idea of drawing out and killing any insects. But this often results in
killing the insects, especially if much salt is used, before "drawing them
out." A better plan is to put the trimmed cabbage or cauliflower head
downwards into _warm_ water for about half an hour. As I trim Brussels
sprouts I throw them into a pan of warm water, and the insects crawl out
and sink to the bottom of the pan. It is astonishing how many one finds at
the bottom of a pan of warm water in which sprouts are soaked.


1. ARTICHOKE, JERUSALEM.

Steam until tender, or bake with a small piece of nutter on each artichoke
until brown. Serve with tomato or white sauce.


2. ASPARAGUS.

Tie in a bundle and stand in a deep saucepan with the stalks in water, so
that the shoots are steamed. Serve with melted butter or white sauce.