_Second Tour_.--While the Upper Columbia abounds in scenery of wild and
picturesque beauty, the tourist must by no means neglect a trip down
the lower river from Portland to Astoria and Ilwaco, and return. The
facilities now offered by the Union Pacific in its splendid fleet of
steamers render this a delightful excursion. On a clear day, one may
enjoy at the junction of the Willamette with the Columbia a very
wonderful sight--five mountain peaks are on view: St. Helens, Mt.
Jefferson, Mt. Adams, Mt. Hood, and Mt. Rainier. St. Helens, queen of
the Cascade Range, a fair and graceful cone. Exquisite mantling snows
sweep along her shoulders toward the bristling pines. Not far from her
base, the Columbia crashes through the mountains in a magnificent
chasm, and Mt. Hood, the vigorous prince of the range, rises in a keen
pyramid some 12,000 feet. Small villages and landing-places line the
shores, almost too numerous to mention. There are, of the more
important, St. Johns, St. Helens, Columbia City, Kalama, Rainier,
Westport, Cathlamet, Knappa, and Astoria at the mouth, a busy place of
6,000 people. Salmon canneries there are without number. It is about 98
miles by the chart from Portland to Astoria. Across the bay is the
pretty town of Ilwaco. Ft. Canby and Cape Disappointment look across to
Ft. Stevens and Point Adams. From Astoria, one may drive eighteen miles
to Clatsop Beach, famous for its clams, crab, and trout, and Ben
Holliday's hotel. But the fullest enjoyment is obtained by making a
round trip, including a lay-over at Ilwaco all night, and returning to
Portland next day, and sleeping on board the boat. A railway runs from
the town to the outside beach, a mile and a half distant. There is a
drive twenty-five miles long up this long beach to Shoal Water Bay,
which is beautiful beyond description. This district is the great
supply point for oysters, heavy shipments being made as far south as
San Francisco. Sea bathing, both here and at Clatsop Beach, is very