of milky coral sand met the green matting of moss and grass, and then
the eye marked the fields of sugar-cane, the forests of false coffee
on which grew the vanilla-vines, the groves of cocoanuts, and then
the fast-climbing ridges and the glorious ravines, the misty heights
and the grim crags.



Chapter IX

The Arearea in the pavilion--Raw fish and baked feis--Llewellyn,
the Master of the Revel; Kelly, the I.V.W., and His Himene--The
Upaupahura--Landers and Mamoe prove experts--The return to Papeete.

The company was assembled in the pavilion when I walked through the
streets of Faatoai again, and the food was on the bamboo table. One
might have thought the feast would have been spread on soft mats on
the sward, as is the Tahitian custom, but these whites are perverse
and proud, and their legs unbending to such a position.

We had raw fish cut up, with bowls of cocoanut sauce. It was delicious
in taste, but raw fish is tough and at first hard to chew until one
becomes accustomed to the texture. Whites learn to crave it.

This fish was cut in small pieces thicker and bigger than a domino,
and steeped in fresh lime-juice for half a day. The sauce was made
by pouring a cup of seawater over grated cocoanuts and after several
hours' straining through the fiber of young cocoanut shoots. It was
thick, like rich cream.