valley, {158} with many broken ascents and descents, we dismounted
from our horses, and proceeded on foot, rehearsing, as it were, by
agreement, some experiments of our intended pilgrimage to Jerusalem.
Having traversed the valley, and reached the opposite side with
considerable fatigue, the archbishop, to rest himself and recover
his breath, sat down on an oak which had been torn up by the
violence of the winds; and relaxing into a pleasantry highly
laudable in a person of his approved gravity, thus addressed his
attendants: "Who amongst you, in this company, can now delight our
wearied ears by whistling?" which is not easily done by people out
of breath. He affirming that he could, if he thought fit, the sweet
notes are heard, in an adjoining wood, of a bird, which some said
was a woodpecker, and others, more correctly, an aureolus. The
woodpecker is called in French, spec, and with its strong bill,
perforates oak trees; the other bird in called aureolus, from the
golden tints of its feathers, and at certain seasons utters a sweet
whistling note instead of a song. Some persons having remarked,
that the nightingale was never heard in this country, the
archbishop, with a significant smile, replied, "The nightingale
followed wise counsel, and never came into Wales; but we, unwise
counsel, who have penetrated and gone through it." We remained that
night at Banchor, {159} the metropolitan see of North Wales, and
were well entertained by the bishop of the diocese. {160} On the
next day, mass being celebrated by the archbishop before the high
altar, the bishop of that see, at the instance of the archbishop and
other persons, more importunate than persuasive, was compelled to
take the cross, to the general concern of all his people of both
sexes, who expressed their grief on this occasion by loud and
lamentable vociferations.