which the most experienced planters allow to be productive of the
strongest and most esteemed of their wines; and when it is of the
growth of the southern vineyards it is held in the highest estimation.
It must, however, be admitted that the northern aspect is unfavourable
to the grape, and that the greater proportion of the wines from that
side are only fit for the still. The cause of this may be referred to
a variety of circumstances; such as the marked difference in the soil
and aspect and the mode of cultivation, the vines being trained upon
trees; whilst on the south side the more approved system is practised
of training them upon horizontal trellis work, raised two or three
feet from the ground, by which the plant is supported and the fruit
exposed to the full influence of the sun. A great superiority of
flavour is, no doubt, thus obtained: on the north side, the grapes are
entirely of the white kind, whilst on the south there is a great
variety, but chiefly of the red, from which it is said the finest wine
is made. The famed vineyards of the Malmsey and Sercial wines, are
towards the west end of the south side. There is but a very small
quantity of either grown on this spot of the first rate quality, or
indeed of any value as a characteristic wine, for on the easternmost
part of this situation there is a constant flow of water rushing from
the summits of the rocks, that greatly deteriorates the value of the
growths over which its influence extends. The practice of plucking the
leaves of the vines to admit the genial heat of the sun to the fruit,
as well as a free circulation of air, has been found most beneficial
in bringing the fruit to perfection. This process is also a source of
emolument to the planter, as the leaves form an excellent food for
fattening cattle destined for the shambles, giving also to the meat a
fine and delicious flavour.

The wines of Madeira generally may be divided into three