statues, I was ushered into spacious apartments, the floors of which were
marble, and the hangings satin. The ceilings were painted by Tintoretto
and his scholars, and were full of Turkish trophies and triumphs over the
Ottomite. The furniture was of the same rich material as the hangings, and
the gilding, although of two hundred years' duration, as bright and
burnished, as the costly equipment of a modern palace. From my balcony of
blinds, I looked upon the great Lagune. It was one of those glorious
sunsets which render Venice, in spite of her degradation, still famous.
The sky and sea vied in the brilliant multiplicity of their blended tints.
The tall shadows of her Palladian churches flung themselves over the
glowing and transparent wave out of which they sprang. The quays were
crowded with joyous groups, and the black gondolas flitted, like sea
serpents, over the red and rippling waters.

I hastened to the Place of St. Mark. It was crowded and illuminated. Three
gorgeous flags waved on the mighty staffs, which are opposite the church
in all the old drawings, and which once bore the standards of Candia and
Cyprus, and the Morea. The coffee-houses were full, and gay parties,
seated on chairs in the open air, listened to the music of military bands,
while they refreshed themselves with confectionary so rich and fanciful,
that it excites the admiration, and the wonder of all travellers, but
which I have since discovered in Turkey to be Oriental. The variety of
costume was also great. The dress of the lower orders in Venice is still
unchanged: many of the middle classes yet wear the cap and cloak. The
Hungarian and the German military, and the bearded Jew, with his black
velvet cap and flowing robes, are observed with curiosity. A few days also
before my arrival, the Austrian squadron had carried into Venice a Turkish
ship and two Greek vessels which had violated the neutrality. Their crews
now mingled with the crowd. I beheld, for the first time, the haughty and
turbaned Ottoman, sitting cross-legged on his carpet under a colonnade,