Contradictory reports--Departure from Constantinople on board the
Archduke John--Scene on the steamer--Galipoli--The Dardanelles--
Tschenekalesi and Kilidil Bahar--The field of Troy--Tenedos--Smyrna--
Halizar--The date-palm--Burnaba--The Acropolis--Female beauty--
Rhodes--Strong fortifications--Deserted appearance of the town--
Cyprus.

The extremely unfavourable reports I heard from Beyrout and
Palestine caused me to defer my departure from day to day. When I
applied to my consul for a "firmann" (Turkish passport), I was
strongly advised not to travel to the Holy Land. The disturbances
on Mount Lebanon and the plague were, they assured me, enemies too
powerful to be encountered except in cases of the most urgent
necessity.

A priest who had arrived from Beyrout about two months previously
affirmed positively that, in consequence of the serious
disturbances, even he, known though he was far and wide as a
physician, had not dared to venture more than a mile from the town
without exposing himself to the greatest danger. He advised me to
stay in Constantinople until the end of September, and then to
travel to Jerusalem with the Greek caravan. This, he said, was the
only method to reach that city in safety.

One day I met a pilgrim in a church who came from Palestine. On my
asking his advice, he not only confirmed the priest's report, but
even added that one of his companions had been murdered whilst
journeying homeward, and that he himself had been despoiled of his
goods, and had only escaped death through the special interposition
of Providence. I did not at all believe the asseverations of this