sickly one. Develop them into strong prints, thoroughly fix, and
wash until you are sure all hypo is removed. In my own practice, I
carry out this part of the work thoroughly, then dry the prints
and lay aside these dark ones until there is an accumulation of a
dozen or more, doing this to avoid too frequent use of the very
poisonous bleaching solution. The bleacher is made up as follows
and should be plainly marked "Poison."

Cyanide of potassium ....... 2 oz.
Iodide of potassium ....... 20 gr.
Water ..................... 16 oz.

Place the dry print, without previous wetting, in this solution.
It will bleach slowly and evenly, but, when it starts to bleach,
transfer it to a tray of water, where it will continue to bleach.
When the desired reduction has taken place, stop the action at
once by immersing the print in a 10-per-cent solution of borax.
The prints may be allowed to remain in this last solution until
they are finished. A good final washing completes the process.
This washing must be thorough and a sponge or a tuft of cotton
used to clean the surface of the print.

With a little practice, this method of saving prints that are too
dark becomes easy and certain. The prints are lightened and at the
same time improved in tone, being made blue-black with a delicate
and pleasing quality that will tempt you to purposely overexpose
some of your prints in order to tone them by this method for
certain effects. The process is particularly valuable to the
worker in large sizes, as it provides a means of making quite a
saving of paper that would otherwise be thrown away.