Returning from our rambles about the mission, we found that our
landlady had been reinforced by an elderly woman, whom she introduced
as "_mi madre_," and two or three Indian _muchachas_, or girls, clad in
a costume not differing much from that of our mother Eve. The latter
were obese in their figures, and the mingled perspiration and filth
standing upon their skins were any thing but agreeable to the eye. The
two senoras, with these handmaids near them, were sitting in front of
the house, busily engaged in executing some needlework.

Supper being prepared and discussed, our landlady informed us that she
had a husband, who was absent, but would return in the course of the
night, and, if he found strange men in the house, he would be much
offended with her. She had therefore directed her _muchachas_ to sweep
out one of the deserted and half-ruined rooms on the opposite square,
to which we could remove our baggage, and in which we could lodge
during the night; and as soon as the necessary preparations were made,
we retired to our dismal apartment. The "compound of villanous smells"
which saluted our nostrils when we entered our dormitory for the night
augured unfavourably for repose. The place had evidently been the abode
of horses, cattle, pigs, and foul vermin of every description. But with
the aid of a dark-coloured tallow-candle, which gave just light enough
to display the murkiness and filth surrounding us, we spread our beds
in the cleanest places, and laid down to rest. Distance travelled, 18
miles.




CHAPTER III.