craft. This was not an easy matter, in the almost impenetrable
darkness. As good-luck would have it, however, after we had groped
about for some time, a light was discovered by our skipper. He rowed
the boat towards it, but grounded. Hauling off, he made another attempt
with better success, reaching within hailing distance of the shore. The
light proceeded from a camp-fire of three Kanacka (Sandwich island)
runaway sailors. As soon as they ascertained who we were and what we
wanted, they stripped themselves naked, and, wading through the mud and
water to the boat, took us on their shoulders, and carried us high and
dry to the land. The boat, being thus lightened of her burden, was
rowed farther up, and landed.

The natives of the Sandwich islands (Kanackas, as they are called) are,
without doubt, the most expert watermen in the world. Their
performances in swimming and diving are so extraordinary, that they may
almost be considered amphibious in their natures and instincts. Water
appears to be as much their natural element as the land. They have
straight black hair, good features, and an amiable and intelligent
expression of countenance. Their complexion resembles that of a bright
mulatto; and, in symmetrical proportions and muscular developments,
they will advantageously compare with any race of men I have seen. The
crews of many of the whale and merchant ships on this coast are partly
composed of Kanackas, and they are justly esteemed as most valuable
sailors.

_October 23_.--The damp raw weather, auguring the near approach of the
autumnal rains, continues. A drizzling mist fell on us during the
night, and the clouds were not dissipated when we resumed our voyage
this morning. Passing through the straits of San Pablo and San Pedro,
we entered a division of the bay called the bay of San Pablo. Wind and