as many travellers as may arrive. The wind may whistle through the
chinks, and the rain come through the roof, but the stranger is well
warmed, and comfortably lodged; and above all, he has the host to wait
upon him with more attention than a servant. The supper is served as soon
as the sun sets.

But where is the table? There is none. Is the supper placed on the floor?
Not so. It is brought in on stools with three legs. They answer the
purpose of tables, trays, and dishes, all in one. What is the fare served
up? This is the sort of dinner provided. On the first table is placed a
flat loaf; the gravy in the middle, and the meat all round. When this is
taken away, another table is brought in with cheese-cakes; a third with
butter and honey; a fourth with a pie; a fifth with a cream; and last of
all, a table, with a wooden bowl of curdled milk. The company have no
plates; but each Circassian carries a spoon and a knife in his girdle,
and with these he helps himself. The servants who stand by, are not
forgotten: a piece of meat or of pie-crust is often given to one of them;
it is curious to see the men take it into a corner to eat it there. There
are many hungry poor waiting at the door of the guest-house, ready to
help the servants to devour the remains of the feast; and there is often
a great deal of food left; for there are generally _ten_ tables, and
sometimes there are _forty_ tables. The guests are expected to taste the
food on each, however many there may be.

Instead of wine, there is a drink called shuat handed to the guests: it
is distilled from grain and honey. Vegetables are not much eaten in
Circassia: for greens are considered fit only for beasts: and there are
no potatoes. Pies, and tarts, and tartlets of various kinds are too well
liked, and the finest ladies in the land are skilful in making them.