hosts of retainers, trains of travellers and pilgrims, and a large
portion of the island traffic of the empire. As the Tokaido passes
through most of the principal towns, the traveller has frequent
opportunities of observing the various avocations of the people; for
mechanics commonly work in front of their doors, as shown in the
woodcut; and in fine weather, the sliding windows through which the
Japanese enter their houses are always drawn back, leaving the
interior and its occupants open to the road.

The baker's shop opposite affords a good specimen of the wayside
scenes, and conveys a fair idea of an ordinary Japanese house. It will
be noticed that the puppies in the foreground, as well as the cat in
the girl's arms, are very differently delineated; but such animals are
the especial stumbling-blocks of the native artists, although they
faithfully represent birds, fishes, and reptiles.

With the exception of the Daimios on their state journeys (who, by the
way, have regular halting-places at tea-houses officially set apart
for their use), for the mass of the people to be seen on the Tokaido
belong to the lower classes--the aristocracy considering it beneath
their dignity to travel for pleasure, or to make pilgrimages.

[Illustration: A BAKER'S SHOP.]

[Illustration: A TEA-HOUSE MERRY-MAKING.]

Naturally hardy and energetic, the Japanese seem thoroughly to enjoy
travelling, which in fine weather has few drawbacks. It is true that
the peremptory order, 'Chetanerio,' or 'Down upon your knees,' at the
approach of one of their oligarchical rulers, would be objectionable