be put into the gravy, while the fowls are cooking; in this case, the
water they are boiled in should be used to make the gravy.


FISH.

Cod has white stripes, and a haddock black stripes; they may be known
apart by this. Haddock is the best for frying; and cod is the best
for boiling, or for a chowder. A thin tail is a sign of a poor fish;
always choose a thick fish. When you are buying mackerel, pinch the
belly to ascertain whether it is good. If it gives under your finger,
like a bladder half filled with wind, the fish is poor; if it feels
hard like butter, the fish is good. It is cheaper to buy one large
mackerel for ninepence, than two for four pence half-penny each.

Fish should not be put in to fry until the fat is boiling hot; it is
very necessary to observe this. It should be dipped in Indian meal
before it is put in; and the skinny side uppermost, when first put
in, to prevent its breaking. It relishes better to be fried after salt
pork, than to be fried in lard alone. People are mistaken, who think
fresh fish should be put into cold water as soon as it is brought into
the house; soaking it in water is injurious. If you want to keep it
sweet, clean it, wash it, wipe it dry with a clean towel, sprinkle
salt inside and out, put it in a covered dish, and keep it on the
_cellar_ floor until you want to cook it. If you live remote from the
seaport, and cannot get fish while hard and fresh, wet it with an egg
beaten, before you meal it, to prevent its breaking.

Fish gravy is very much improved by taking out some of the fat, after
the fish is fried, and putting in a little butter. The fat thus taken