bearer of it brings it into the hall singing to an old tune, an old
Latin rhyme, _Caput Apri Defero, &c._

Formerly, "An English gentleman at the opening of the great day, i.e. on
Christmas Day in the morning, had all his tenants and neighbours enter
his hall by day-break. The strong beer was broached, and the black jacks
went plentifully about with toast, sugar, nutmeg, and good Cheshire
cheese. The hackin (the great sausage) must be boiled by day-break, or
else two young men must take the maiden (the cook) by the arms, and run
her round the market-place till she is ashamed of her laziness."--_From
an old Tract, "Round about our Coal Fire, or Christmas Entertainments_."

Further, from the same Tract we find that "In Christmas holidayes," the
tables were all spread from the first to the last; the sirloins of beef,
the minched pies, the _plum porridge_, the capons, turkeys, geese
and plum-puddings, were all brought upon the board, every one ate
heartily and was welcome, which gave rise to the proverb, "merry in the
hall, where beards wag all."

Misson says, "the plum-porridge is not at all inferior to the pie;" the
goose pie usually made at Christmas.

_Yule Cakes_.--I must now call your attention to the _Yule
Cakes_. Yule dough a little image of paste, was formerly baked at
_Yuletide_, and presented by bakers to their customers, as
_Christmas candles_ are given away by tallow chandlers. Brand
says, "the Yule dough has perhaps been intended for an image of the
child, Jesus, with the Virgin Mary," and he says, "it is now, if I
mistake not, pretty generally laid aside, or at most retained only by
children." Mr. Brand was not aware that the custom still prevailed in