not understand that it is often difficult, or even impossible, to
recognize the growing tree by its bark, covered as it is from base
to branches with parasitic vegetation of every sort. In those forests
whatever has a stout stem is used without scruple by the bignonias and
air-plants, which race over the trunk, plant their root-claws in the
cracks, leap over the whole tree at a single jet, or strangle it with
multiplied knots, all the while adorning it with a superb mantle of
leaves and blossoms. This is a difficulty which the most experienced
_cascarilleros_ are not able to overcome. As an instance, the history
is cited of a _practico_ or speculator who led an exploration for
these trees in the valley of Apolobamba. After having caused to be
felled, barked, measured, dried and trimmed all the cinchonas of one
of those natural thickets called _manchas_--an operation which had
occupied four months--he was about to abandon the spot and pursue
the exploration elsewhere, when accident led him to discover, in
the enormous trunk buried in creepers against which he had built his
cabin, a _Cinchona nitida_, the forefather of all the trees he had
stripped.

In this kind of search the caravan pursued the borders of the
river, sometimes on this side and sometimes on that, now passing the
two-headed mountain Camanti, now sighting the tufted peak of Basiri,
now crossing the torrent called the Garote. In the latter, where
the dam and hydraulic works of an old Spanish gold-hunter were still
visible in a state of ruin, the sacred golden thirst of Colonel Perez
once more attacked him. Two or three pins' heads of the insane metal
were actually unearthed by the colonel and displayed in a pie-dish;
but the business of the party was one which made even the finding of
gold insignificant, and they pursued their way.