on his return from his usual afternoon promenade. This "promenade,"
however, was not a walk, a ride or a drive, but an airing in one of
the royal state barges. For the late king, true to the usages of his
forefathers, continued to the very close of his life to make all his
tours, public and private, with very rare exceptions, by water. This
has heretofore been the custom of all classes, the gently-flowing
Meinam being the Broadway of Bangkok, and canals, intersecting the
city in every direction, its cross streets. Every family keeps one or
more boats and a full complement of rowers; palaces and temples
have their gates on the river; and upon its placid waters move in
ever-varying panorama life's shifting scenes of weddings and funerals,
business and pleasure, from early morn till long past midnight. Only
since the accession of the present kings have streets been constructed
along the river-banks; and these young princes, as a sort of
concession to European customs, now take occasional drives in open
carriages, attended by liveried servants, though for state processions
boats are still in vogue. His Majesty the late king was ordinarily
conveyed to the jetty in a state palanquin, and handed from it into
his boat, without the sole of his boot ever touching the ground. This
has been the custom of Siamese monarchs from time immemorial, but I
have sometimes seen both the late kings wave aside their bearers and
jump with agile dexterity into their boats, as if it were a relief to
them to lay aside courtly etiquette and act like ordinary mortals.
The royal palanquins are completely covered with plates of pure gold
inlaid with pearls, and the cushions are of velvet embroidered, and
edged with heavy gold lace. They are borne by sixteen men robed in
azure silk sarangs and shirts of embroidered muslin. The umbrella is
of blue, crimson or purple silk, and for state occasions is richly
embroidered, and studded with precious stones. So also are those
placed over the throne, the sofa, or whatever seat the king happens to