AUGUST 11th.--Started again at daybreak but soon stopped at Bigbikara,
where there is another bridge. All these bridges are alike and similar
to the one described at Baramula, but this one is particularly pretty
from the fact of large trees having grown from the lower part of every
pier. These trees green and flourishing are high above the footway,
between which and the water there is a distant vista of fine mountains.
Fished here, but only hooked one, which I judged from its run to be
large, and lost it. Above the bridge the river narrowed to about half
its former width. We are approaching a very grand range of mountains
which seems to be the boundary of the valley. Before mid-day we reached
Kunbul and completed the trip of forty miles by water. At Kunbul is the
first bridge over the Jhelum, the river here diminishes to a breadth of
only thirty or forty yards, and soon breaks up into a number of small
streams which mostly rise from the water, then along the foot of the
hills.


AUGUST 12th.--Marched to Buroen, six miles, on arriving found the
camping ground occupied by numerous "Fakirs" who had lately returned
from Ummernath. These men are horrible looking objects, most of them
being painted white and nearly naked. Ummernath is a mountain 1,600
feet high, and at the top of it is a cave sacred to the Hindoo Deity.
In July pilgrims assemble there for a great religious festival, and
these are some of them on their way back. I intended to visit this cave,
but I have not time now, and I have thought that it may be a trifle too
cold up there. At Burven is a very holy spring. Two tanks are formed
where the water escapes from the ground, and these tanks swarm with tame
fish, some of them of large size. It was a great sight feeding them.