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The Complete Book of Cheese by Robert Carlton Brown
page 54 of 464 (11%)
That nice little smoky room at the "Salutation," which is even
now continually presenting itself to my recollection, with all
its associated train of pipes, egg-hot, welsh-rabbits,
metaphysics and poetry.

Charles Lamb, IN A LETTER TO COLERIDGE


Unlike the beginning of the classical Jugged Hare recipe: "First catch
your hare!" we modern Rabbit-hunters start off with "First catch your
Cheddar!" And some of us go so far as to smuggle in formerly forbidden
_fromages_ such as Gruyère, Neufchâtel, Parmesan, and mixtures
thereof. We run the gamut of personal preferences in selecting the
Rabbit cheese itself, from old-time American, yellow or store cheese,
to Coon and Canadian-smoked, though all of it is still Cheddar, no
matter how you slice it.

Then, too, guests are made to run the gauntlet of all-American
trimmings from pin-money pickles to peanut butter, succotash and maybe
marshmallows; we add mustard, chill, curry, tabasco and sundry bottled
red devils from the grocery store, to add pep and piquance to the
traditional cayenne and black pepper. This results in Rabbits that are
out of focus, out of order and out of this world.

Among modern sins of omission, the Worcestershire sauce is left out by
braggarts who aver that they can take it or leave it. And, in these
degenerate days, when it comes to substitutions for the original beer
or stale pale ale, we find the gratings of great Cheddars wet down
with mere California sherry or even ginger ale--yet so far, thank
goodness, no Cokes. And there's tomato juice out of a can into the Rum
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