and the Castle of Europe is still in good preservation. It consists of
two large towers and several small ones connected by walls, and is built
of a rough white stone, to which the ivy clings luxuriantly.

A pleasant excursion is to take a little steamer, which runs up the
Bosphorus and back, touching at Beicos (Bey Kos), and visit the Giant
Mountain, from which is a magnificent view of the Black Sea and nearly
the whole length of the Bosphorus. We breakfasted early, but when ready
to start found our guide had disappointed us, and his place was not to
be supplied. The day was perfect, and rather than give up our trip we
determined to go by ourselves, trusting that the success which had
attended similar expeditions without a _commissionnaire_ would not
desert us on this occasion. The sail up on the steamer was charming.
There are many villages on the shores of the Bosphorus, and between
them are scattered palaces and summer residences, the latter often
reminding us of Venetian houses, built directly on the shore with steps
down to the water, and caïques moored at the doors, as the gondolas are
in Venice. The houses are surrounded by beautiful gardens, with a
profusion of flowers blooming on the very edge of the shore, their gay
colors reflected in the waves beneath.

We learned from the captain of the steamer that Giant Mountain was two
and a half miles from the village, with no very well-defined road
leading to it; so on landing at Bey Kos we made inquiries for a guide,
and this time were successful. Horses were also forthcoming, but no
side-saddle. I respectfully declined to follow the example of my Turkish
sisters and mount a gentleman's saddle; neither was I anxious to ride my
Arab steed bareback, so we concluded to try a cow-carriage, and
despatched our guide to hire the only one the place afforded. This
stylish establishment was not to be had; so, having wasted half an hour