hardly the width of a canal, yet curves as no canal would ever curve, so
that the captain in giving orders has to watch both ends of the vessel to
see that neither runs aground. It would be impossible for two steamers to
pass each other in the river, and the contingency of their meeting is
guarded against by the fact that returning steamers have to go round the
Point, being too heavily laden with flour from Duluth. As it was, there
were but thirteen feet of water in the river, and the Japan drew twelve.

Once in the river, we experienced a most extraordinary transformation.
Every one knows what it is to pass in a day or two from northern snow to
southern roses, or in a few hours from valley roses to mountain snow; but
here, _in five minutes_, and remaining on precisely the same level, we
passed from October to July. The cold lake-breeze died away, and on the
little inland river the sun was actually oppressive. Seal-skins were cast
aside, and we sent hastily below for sun-umbrellas. The speed of the
steamer was slackened to four miles an hour. You heard no click of
machinery or swash of water against the sides: we were gliding on through
a green and lovely marsh, with water-lilies all about us and wild roses in
the distance. Cattle stood knee-deep in pleasant brooks, locusts hummed
and buzzed in the warm air, all sweet summer sounds and scents encompassed
us. There was even a little settlement of scattered houses; but the
expected steamer had evidently created no excitement in the inmates. It
would not stop; it brought them neither mail nor summer boarder: why
should they care just to see it pass? One man, painting the window-sashes
of his house with his back to the steamer, never even turned or paused
from his work, though we were so near that he might have heard what was
said about him on the deck. It is not the dweller in the wilderness, but
the denizen of cities, that longs for something to happen.

At Hancock the steamer waits several hours, giving an opportunity to visit