manner, we should still avoid one in which onions or vegetables, or even
black butter has been made. The inside of an omelet-pan should always look
as if it had only just left the ironmonger's shop.

The next great question is, how much butter should be allowed for, say, six
eggs? On this point the greatest authorities differ. We will first quote
our authorities, and then attempt to give an explanation that reconciles
the difference. A plain omelet may be roughly described as settings of
eggs well beaten up by stirring them up in hot butter. One of the oldest
cookery books we can call to mind is entitled "The Experienced English
Housekeeper," by Elizabeth Raffald. The book, which was published in 1775,
is dedicated to the Hon. Lady Elizabeth Warburton, whom the authoress
formerly served. as housekeeper. The recipe is entitled "To make an
amulet." The book states, "Put a quarter of a pound of butter into a
frying-pan, break six eggs"; Francatelli also gives four ounces of butter
to six eggs.

On the other hand, Soyer, the great cook, gives two ounces of butter to six
eggs; so also does the equally great Louis Eustache Ude, cook to Louis XVI.

We may add that "Cassell's Dictionary of Cookery" recommended two ounces of
butter to six eggs, whilst "Cassell's Shilling Cookery" recommends four
eggs.

The probable reason why two such undoubtedly great authorities as Soyer and
Francatelli should differ is that in making one kind of omelet you would
use less butter than in making another. Francatelli wrote for what may be
described as that "high class cooking suited for Pall Mall clubs," where no
one better than himself knew how best to raise the jaded appetite of a
wealthy epicure. Soyer's book was written for the people.