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Theory of Silk Weaving - A Treatise on the Construction and Application of Weaves, and the Decomposition and Calculation of Broad and Narrow, Plain, Novelty and Jacquard Silk Fabrics by Arnold Wolfensberger
page 31 of 83 (37%)

[Page 49]
CANNELE and REPP WEAVES

are in their construction related to the taffeta, and are used mostly in
the form of stripes as an additional ornament to a fabric. The threads
going into the composition of these effects exchange continually from
taffeta interlacing to floating over a certain number of threads, and must
be introduced either in warp or filling close enough to make the floats
cover up the taffeta work entirely, and thus enable the material used to
show up with the full brilliancy it possesses.

Cannele effects can be produced in two distinct ways. One is to let every
individual thread work alternately taffeta and float, while in the other
method one thread weaves always taffeta, and a second thread is used for
the cannele exclusively. These latter threads must come from a separate
warp, which is introduced to embellish the ground or taffeta part of the
fabric.

The floating threads can either stitch all on one pick and so form a
continuous cut line, or be divided in groups, of which one will bind in the
middle of the floats of the other group. The following designs show both
the face and backside of the respective weaves:

[Page 50]
_Alternating Cannele_ of 6 picks.

On 4 shafts, straight through.

[Illustration: Fig. 66]
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