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Theory of Silk Weaving - A Treatise on the Construction and Application of Weaves, and the Decomposition and Calculation of Broad and Narrow, Plain, Novelty and Jacquard Silk Fabrics by Arnold Wolfensberger
page 45 of 83 (54%)
on the weight in drams (avoirdupois) of a skein containing 1000 yards. A
skein, thus weighing 5 drams, is technically called 5-dram silk. The number
of yards of 1-dram silk to a pound must accordingly be 256000. The formulas
for figuring the amount of silk required for a piece of cloth are as
follows:

Warp Calculation

_Multiply_: Number of ends×length×count
-----------------------------
_Divide by_: 1000 yards×256 drams

[Page 72]
Filling Calculation

_Multiply:_ Picks×xply×width×length of piece×count
-------------------------------------- = lbs.
_Divide by:_ 1000 yards×256 drams

The result in both cases will be in pounds.

The system of grading the silk which is in vogue in Europe, and which is
employed by a number of mills on this side, is as follows:

1 skein of 500 meters, weighing 0,05 grams = 1 denier international
or 1 " 476 " " 0,053 " = 1 " Turin system
or 1 " 476 " " 0,051 " = 1 " Milan "

The warp calculation, taking the international denier, would run:

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