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Theory of Silk Weaving - A Treatise on the Construction and Application of Weaves, and the Decomposition and Calculation of Broad and Narrow, Plain, Novelty and Jacquard Silk Fabrics by Arnold Wolfensberger
page 65 of 83 (78%)

With these looms about everything can be made that is called for in
box-loom effects, and as styles change, it is wise to be prepared.

* * * * *

MANUFACTURING COSTS

The calculator first ascertains for the warp: What silk will be used, the
cost of the same, total number of ends in the warps for the amount of silk,
cost of throwing, dyeing, winding, warping, twisting, entering, and
weaving.

Then the filling: Silk to be used, how much, cost of silk, cost of
throwing, dyeing, winding, doubling, quilling.

After this determine the cost of weaving, cloth picking, finishing, factory
costs, and selling expenses.

To-day most of the operations are paid by "piece work."

The calculator must always take into consideration that poor raw silk or
poor dyeing make production slow, increase the cost of labor, and also that
more waste will be made.

THROWING: Regular organ usually has 16 turns per inch in the first twist
and 14 turns to the inch in the second or reverse twist. Tram receives only
one twisting, about three turns to the inch.

As the warp twisting-in is paid for at so much per hundred or thousand
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