temporarily to both legs, turn the trestle over, and draw your pencil
(which should have a sharp point) along the angles which the strut makes
with the legs. This gives you the limits of the overlaps. Detach the strut.

The marking-gauge now comes into use. Set it at 3/8 inch, and make marks on
the sides of the strut down to the limits, pressing the guide against what
will be the inner face of the board. The ends must now be divided down
along the gauge scratches to the limit mark with a tenon or panel saw, the
saw being kept on the inside of the mark, So that its cut is included in
the 3/8 inch, and a cross cut made to detach the piece and leave a
shoulder. The strut is "offered" again to the legs, and a mark is drawn
across the bottom parallel to the ends or the legs for the final saw cut.
Nail on the strut, pressing the legs well up against the shoulders. Its
fellow on the other side of the legs is prepared in exactly the same
manner; and the second trestle is a duplicate of the first, with the
exception that the directions of the struts are reversed relatively to the
C piece, to preserve the symmetry--which, however, is not an important
point.

[Illustration: FIG. 5.--End elevation of joiner's bench.]

Back and Front.--The only operation to be performed on the front piece B
and the back G is the notching of them both on the inside faces at the
centre to take the ends of the bearer F, which performs the important
function of preventing any bending of the top planks. Lay the boards
together, top edges and ends level, and mark them at the same time. The
square is then used on the faces to give the limits for the notches, which
should be 1/4 inch deep and chiselled out carefully.

Draw cross lines with your square 3 inches from each end of both pieces, on