wood sliding stiffly through a hole in A1 and provided on top with a
fragment of old saw blade having its teeth projecting beyond the side
facing the work. The bench is countersunk to allow the teeth to be driven
down out of the way when a "clear bench" is required.

Just a word of warning in conclusion. Don't be tempted to nail the parts
together--with the exception of the trestle components--to save
trouble. The use of screws entails very little extra bother, and gives you
a bench which can be taken to pieces very quickly for transport, and is
therefore more valuable than a nailed one.



III. A HANDY BOOKSTAND.

A bookstand of the kind shown in Fig. 7 has two great advantages: first, it
holds the books in such a position that their titles are read more easily
than when the books stand vertically; second, it can be taken to pieces for
packing in a few moments, as it consists of but four pieces held together
by eight removable wedges. We recommend it for use on the study table.

Oak or walnut should preferably be chosen as material, or, if the maker
wishes to economize, American whitewood or yellow pine. Stuff 1/4 inch
(actual) thick will serve throughout if the stronger woods are used; 3/8
inch for the shelf parts in the case of whitewood or pine.

The ends (Fig. 8) are sawn out of pieces 5-1/2 by 10 inches, and nicely
rounded off on all but the bottom edge, which is planed flat and true. The
positions for the holes through which the shelf eyes will project must be
marked accurately, to prevent the stand showing a twist when put together.