most likely to get wetted, should then be given a coat or two of paint.

A waste pipe, somewhat larger than the drain hole and 3 inches long, having
been firmly soldered to the tray, beat the edges of the hole down into the
pipe. Then prepare a wooden collar to fit the pipe outside, and drill a
hole on the centre line to take a carpenter's screw. If the edges of the
tray are supported on slats 3/16 to 1/4 inch thick, and its centre is kept
in contact with the wood by the collar pressing against the underside of
the shelf, any water will naturally gravitate to the centre and escape by
the waste pipe. This automatic clearance of "slops" is a very desirable
feature of a developing sink.

To prevent water splashing on to the sides of the stand and working down
between tray and wood, tack pieces of American cloth on the sides with
their edges overlapping the tray edges by an inch or so.

A small two-handled bath is the most convenient receptacle for the waste
water. It should hold at least a quarter as much again as the water tank,
so as to avoid any danger of overfilling. A piece of old cycle tyre tubing,
tied to the waste pipe and long enough to reach below the edge of the bath,
will prevent splashing--which, when chemicals are being poured away, might
prove disastrous to light-coloured clothes.

The supply pipe has a siphon-piece of "compo" tubing at the top, to draw
off the water when the tube has been filled by suction, and a small tap at
the bottom. This tap, when not in use, should be held back out of the way
by a wire hook attached to the lowest of the upper shelves. A piece of
linoleum should be cut to fit the bath-shelf and protect the drawer below.