CHAPTER XII.

VALPARAISO TO TAHITI.

_The western sea was all aflame,_
_The day was well nigh done!_
_Almost upon the western wave_
_Rested the broad bright sun._


_Tuesday, October 31st_.--Throughout the night a flat calm prevailed.
The morning was wet and foggy, or we might still have seen Valparaiso,
and perhaps have had a peep at Aconcagua. There was a light contrary
wind from the N.W. throughout the day. In the afternoon we saw two
whales blowing in the distance.

_Wednesday, November 1st_.--An almost calm day, with a few light
showers, and fitful but unfavourable breezes. Some thirty or forty
little birds, which the sailors called Mother Carey's chickens, but
which were smaller and more graceful than any I have seen of that
name, followed closely in our wake. I was never tired of watching the
dainty way in which they just touched the tips of the waves with their
feet, and then started off afresh, like a little maiden skipping and
hopping along, from sheer exuberance of spirit.

_Thursday, November 2nd_.--A bright sunny morning, with a heavy swell
and light contrary wind, but the sea became more tranquil towards the
evening. The sunset was superb, and the afterglow, as is often the