see some people sitting on the shore, and several others, who had
probably come over from the other side to meet us, running swiftly
down the sides of the cliffs to the beach. The island was of a
different character from the one we had already visited, and was
evidently of volcanic origin. No coral was anywhere to be seen, but
there were big rocks jutting out at intervals into the sea all round
it, one of which seemed large enough to afford us a sort of shelter in
landing. The natives waved and pointed towards the channel beyond this
rock, and one or two swam out to meet us; but we soon found that the
channel would not be wide enough to admit our big boat, though it was
no doubt sufficient for a light canoe, drawing some two inches of
water. We therefore reluctantly turned away and resumed our uneasy
coasting voyage, in the course of which we passed some nearly leafless
trees, full of white patches, too large for flowers, which afterwards
turned out to be booby-birds, who here find a resting-place. They are
so numerous that it is hardly possible to walk beneath the trees
without treading on their eggs.

Having completed the circuit of the island, we found ourselves once
more opposite the spot where we had first thought of landing, and the
tide being by this time a little higher, we decided to make another
attempt. Some of the natives, seeing us approach, plunged into the
water as before, and seized the gunwale of the boat, while others, on
shore, brought down rollers to put beneath our keel. We went in on the
top of a big wave, and thus at last found ourselves--boat and
all--high and dry on the beach of Maitea.

The people came down to meet us, and conducted us to the house of the
chief, who, with his pretty wife, received us kindly, but with much
gravity and dignity. Mats were placed for me to sit upon, wreaths were