flowing, and steam and smoke were issuing from the surface. It was a
toilsome journey back again, walking as we did in single file, and
obeying the strict injunctions of our head guide to follow him
closely, and to tread exactly in his footsteps. On the whole it was
easier by night than by day to distinguish the route to be taken, as
we could now see the dangers that before we could only feel; and many
were the fiery crevices we stepped over or jumped across. Once I
slipped, and my foot sank through the thin crust. Sparks issued from
the ground, and the stick on which I leant caught fire before I could
fairly recover myself.

Either from the effects of the unaccustomed exercise after our long
voyage, or from the intense excitement of the novel scene, combined
with the gaseous exhalations from the lava, my strength began to fail,
and before reaching the side of the crater I felt quite exhausted. I
struggled on at short intervals, however, collapsing several times and
fainting away twice; but at last I had fairly to give in, and to allow
myself to be ignominiously carried up the steep precipice to the
'Volcano House' on a chair, which the guides went to fetch for me.

It was half-past eleven when we once more found ourselves beneath Mr.
Kane's hospitable roof; he had expected us to return at nine o'clock,
and was beginning to feel anxious about us.

_Monday, December 25th (Christmas Day)_.--Turning in last night was
the work of a very few minutes, and this morning I awoke perfectly
refreshed and ready to appreciate anew the wonders of the prospect
that met my eyes. The pillar of fire was still distinctly visible when
I looked out from my window, though it was not so bright as when I
had last seen it; but even as I looked it began to fade, and gradually