left home, we should have been well rewarded for our long voyage.

At six o'clock we were dressed and packed. Breakfast followed at
half-past, and at seven we were prepared for a start. Our kind, active
host, and his wife and baby, all came out to see us off. The canter
over the dewy grass, in the fresh morning air, was most invigorating.
It was evident that no one had passed along the road since Saturday
night, for we picked up several waifs and strays dropped in the dark
on our way up--a whip, a stirrup, mackintosh hood, &c.

By half-past ten we had reached the 'Half-way House,' where we were
not expected so early, and where we had ample opportunity to observe
the native ways of living, while waiting for our midday meal--an
uninteresting mess of stewed fowl and _taro_, washed down with weak
tea. After it was over I made an unsuccessful attempt to induce the
woman of the house to part with her orange-coloured _lei_. I bought
some _tappa_ and mallets, however, with some of the markers used in
colouring the cloth, and a few gourds and calabashes, forming part of
the household furniture. While the horses were being saddled
preparatory to our departure, Mabelle and I went to another cottage
close by, to see the mother of the baby that had been born while we
were here on Saturday. She was not at home; but we afterwards found
her playing cards with some of her friends in a neighbouring hut.
Quite a large party of many natives were gathered together, not the
least cheerful of whom was the young mother whose case had interested
me so much.

The rest of the ride down to Hilo was as dull and monotonous as our
upward journey had been, although, in order to enable us to get over
it as quickly as possible, fresh horses had been sent to meet us. At