All the kings and chiefs have been special adepts in the invigorating
pastime of surf-swimming, and the present king's sisters are
considered first-rate hands at it. The performers begin by swimming
out into the bay, and diving under the huge Pacific rollers, pushing
their surf-boards--flat pieces of wood, about four feet long by two
wide, pointed at each end--edgewise before them. For the return
journey they select a large wave; and then, either sitting, kneeling,
or standing on their boards, rush in shorewards with the speed of a
racehorse, on the curling crest of the monster, enveloped in foarn and
spray, and holding on, as it were, by the milk-white manes of their
furious coursers. It looked a most enjoyable amusement, and I should
think that, to a powerful swimmer, with plenty of pluck, the feat is
not difficult of accomplishment. The natives here are almost
amphibious. They played all sorts of tricks in the water, some of the
performers being quite tiny boys. Four strong rowers took a whale-boat
out into the worst surf, and then, steering her by means of a large
oar, brought her safely back to the shore on the top of a huge wave.

After the conclusion of this novel entertainment, we all proceeded on
horseback to the Falls, Baby going in front of Tom, and Muriel riding
with Mr. Freer. After a couple of miles we dismounted, and had a short
walk through grass and ferns to a pretty double waterfall, tumbling
over a cliff, about 100 feet high, into a glassy pool of the river
beneath. It fell in front of a fern-filled black lava cavern, over
which a rainbow generally hangs. As it was too wet to sit on the grass
after the rain, we took possession of the verandah of a native house,
commanding a fine view of the bay and town of Hilo. The hot coffee and
eggs were a great success eventually, though the smoke from the wood
fire nearly suffocated us in the process of cooking. Excellent also
was some grey mullet, brought to us alive, and cooked native