mountains, from which we emerged on the other side of the central
range of hills, forming the backbone of the island. The view from this
point was beautiful, though I think that the morning would be a better
time to enjoy it, as, with a setting sun, the landscape was all in
shadow. The change of temperature, too, after the heat of Honolulu,
was quite astonishing, considering the short distance we had
come--about eight miles only. The carriage could not go quite to the
top of the mountain, and after descending a short distance to where it
had been left, we dismounted and spread our dinner on the ground; but
darkness overtook us before we had finished. Matches and lamps had of
course been forgotten; so that the business of packing up was
performed under circumstances of great difficulty. The ride down, in
the light of the almost full moon, was delightful.

We were on board by half-past seven, and went ashore to a ball at nine
o'clock. The dance took place in the large room of the Hawaiian Hotel,
and was a great success. The Royal band played for us, and there was
neither stuffiness nor crowding, nor were there any regulations as to
dress, gentlemen and ladies coming in evening or morning dress, as it
suited them best. The Governor and most of the English present,
including our own party, wore evening dress, and the officers of the
'Fantôme' were in uniform. Every door and window was open, there was a
large verandah to sit in, a garden to stroll about in between the
dances, and an abundance of delicious iced lemonade--very different
from the composition thus named which is generally met with in London
assemblies--to drink. At half-past twelve, when people were beginning
to disperse, we took our departure, Captain Long taking us off to the
yacht in his boat.

There is to be another ball on Thursday night, for which everybody is