was anything so beautiful in Japanese architecture as this temple. The
primary idea in the architecture of Japan is evidently that of a tent
among trees. The lines of the high, overhanging, richly decorated
roofs, with pointed gable ends, are not straight, but delicately
curved, like the suspended cloth of a tent. In the same way, the
pillars have neither capital nor base, but seem to run through the
building perpendicularly, without beginning or end. The principal
temple was burnt down a few years ago; but there are many smaller ones
remaining, built in exactly the same style, and all the tombs are
perfect. Some people say the bodies are enclosed in coffins, filled
with vermilion, but I need hardly say we had no opportunity of
ascertaining the correctness of this statement. We entered several of
the temples, which are perfect marvels of carving, gilding, painting,
and lacquer work. Their style of decoration may be somewhat barbaric;
but what a study they would form for an artist! Outside, where no
colour is used, the overhanging roofs and the walls are carved with a
depth and boldness, and yet a delicacy, I have seldom seen equalled;
the doors and railings being of massive bronze, brought from the
Corea. Within, a dim religious light illumines and harmonises a
dazzling mass of lacquer, gold, and painting. It is the grandest
burial-place imaginable; too good for the long line of men who have
tyrannised over Japan and its lawful sovereigns for so many centuries
past.

The streets of Tokio were crowded with a motley throng up to the very
gates of the citadel, where, within the first moat, stand all the
_yashgis_, or residences of the Daimios. Each _yashgi_ is surrounded
by a blank wall, loopholed, and with a tower at each of the four
corners. Within this outer wall is the court of the retainers, all of
them 'two-sworded' men; then comes a second wall, also loopholed,