first, with attendant ceremonies, "made the trial" of napkins and table
implements as a safeguard from evil designs against his life. Even the
simplest repast served to the King comprised many dishes, for the Grand
Monarch ate heartily, though with discriminating appetite.

Unless the Sovereign dined in the privacy of his bed-chamber, he was
surrounded by princes and courtiers. At "public dinners" a procession of
well-dressed persons continually passed through the room to observe the
King at his dining.

It was ordained that the King's meat should be brought to the table from
the kitchens in the Grand Commune after this manner: "Two of His
Majesty's guards will march first, followed by the usher of the hall, the
_maître d'hôtel_ with his baton, the gentleman servant of the pantry, the
controller-general, the controller clerk of the Office, and others who
carry the Meat, the equerry of the kitchen and the guard of the plates
and dishes, and behind them two other guards of His Majesty, who are to
allow no one to approach the Meat.

"In the Office called the _Bouche_, the equerry of the Kitchen arranges
the dishes upon a table, and presents two trials of bread to the _maître
d'hôtel_, who makes the trial of the first course, and who, having placed
the meats for the trial upon these two trials of bread, gives one to the
equerry of the Kitchen, who eats it, while the other is eaten by the
_maître d'hôtel_. Afterward the gentleman servant takes the first dish,
the second is taken by the controller, and the other officers of the
Kitchen take the rest. They advance in this order: the _maître d'hôtel_,
having his baton, marches at the head, preceded some steps by the usher
of the hall, carrying his wand, which is the sign of his office, and in
the evening bearing a torch as well. When the Meat, accompanied by three