their fishing places, there were only about a dozen men and boys and
rather more women and girls with an extra sprinkling of lively and
healthy-looking babies. Most were characterized by an air of
independence amusingly illustrated at the close by the oldest man,
who asked aloud when the visitor from London was going to speak to
them.

[Illustration: TENTS AT RAMAH.]

And what of the spiritual life of this little congregation? In reply I
will give neither my own impressions, nor the missionary's testimony
to his flock, apt sometimes to be influenced by his estimate of what
they should be. I will call in a casual witness. Last year Eugenia, a
Christian Eskimo from Hopedale, visited all the congregations,
travelling to and fro by dog-sledge with the post-sledges. She
remarked to her missionary: "The Ramah and Okak people, those are the
best in the country. At Ramah I was quite shamed by their desire after
truth. They said, 'You know these things; teach us, we are so
stupid.'"




AN ESKIMO VILLAGE.


Now for a visit to our Eskimoes in their own dwellings, as the two
missionaries are ready to accompany me and interpret for me. It may
not be a pleasant expedition in every respect, as within and without
there is a pervading fishy smell. Rows of drying fish hang on frames