open carriage and drove to the Cathedral. The building is not imposing
from the outside, but is highly gilded within where is the famous Holy
Cross which gives the town its name. There are also many wax figures
representing saints, mostly dressed in the costume of the seventeenth
century and enclosed in glass cases. The boy who acted as our guide
having discovered our nationality, pointed out with great glee _English
organ_, _English clock_. and finally with satirical humour--probably
unconscious--_English flags_. These flags are those lost by Nelson at
the siege of Santa Crus where he lost his arm and a good story is told
about them. An ambitious British middy stole them from the Cathedral and
was very disappointed, when instead of being at once promoted, he was
forced to apologize and restore them.

We next drive up a broad, fairly well kept, boulevard to the Bull Ring
situated in an open space behind the town. A woman conducts us into the
ring and shows us the stables in which the infuriated beasts are kept
before they are asked to shed their blood for the idle amusement of the
spectators. On the walls are many names which look like British, and the
guide is quite astonished when we refuse to add ours to their number.

Commandant Arnold here takes on board six camels, for it is hoped these
ships of the desert will also sail equally well in the forest. The
experiment is at any rate not expensive, for they only cost £16 each and
will carry several hundred pounds weight of baggage.

From time to time the Congo Government has been charged with forcing the
natives to work against their will and with ill-treating them, and it
has also been alleged that the native soldiers committed many atrocities
during the wars against the revolting tribes. Many of these charges have
been collected and published in _Civilisation in Congoland_ written by