obliged to lag, and about midday found myself alone in the solitudes of
the Dalles. At last there came a gorge deeper and steeper than any thing
that had preceded it, and I was forced to rest long before attempting its
almost perpendicular ascent. When I did reach the top, it was to find
myself thoroughly done up--the sun came down on the side of the
embankment as though it would burn the sandy soil into ashes, not a
breath of air moved through the silent hills, not a leaf stirred in the
forest. My load was more than I could bear, and again I had to lie down
to avoid falling down. Only once before had I experienced a similar
sensation of choking, and that was in toiling through a Burmese swamp,
snipe-shooting under a midday sun. How near that was to sun-stroke, I
can't say; but I don't think it could be very far. After a little time, I
saw, some distance down below, smoke rising from a shanty. I made my way
with no small difficulty to the door, and found the place full of some
twenty or more rough-bearded looking men sitting down to dinner.

"About played out, I guess?" said one. "Wall, that sun is h--; any how,
come in and have a bit. Have a drink of tea or some vinegar and water."

They filled me out a literal dish of tea, black and boiling; and I
drained the tin with a feeling of relief such as one seldom knows. The
place was lined round with bunks like the forecastle of a ship. After a
time I rose to depart and asked the man who acted as cook how much there
was to pay.

"Not a cent, stranger;" and so I left my rough hospitable friends, and,
gaining the railroad, lay down to rest until the fiery sun had got lower
in the west. The remainder of the road was thronged with gangs of men at
work along it, bridging, blasting, building, and levelling--strong
able-bodied fellows fit for any thing. Each gang was under the