we to be asked to pay fees for our persons. I sent a complaint to
the duke of Medina, who was greatly offended, and condemned the act,
so finally they gave me my despatch for almost nothing.

_Fees on the Northern Sea._ At sea there is another registry at the
time of the inspection of the ships, which generally takes place in
mid-ocean at some time when the wind is fair, at the pleasure of the
commander of the fleet. In truth, it seems as if it were invented
solely for the gain which the officials obtain from it. They exact
twelve reals from every passenger; and since the poor are usually
by that time drained so dry that most of them go on board without a
single real--having spent everything on expenses in port, the king's
fees, and the ingenious exactions of the custom-house officers and
excise-men--they suffer more from this than from everything else
that they have previously spent. In my case they did me the honor to
excuse me from the fees for the religious, but refused to do so for
the servants whom we brought with us. Finally, however, we brought
them to the point of agreeing to this because it was plain that we
all had come by the order of his Majesty. This affair was the cause
of no small embarrassment and resentment for all.

_From San Joan de Lua to Mexico._ In the port of San Joan de Lua [12]
in Nueva España is the fourth station on the route. It is not the most
comfortable one, although it ought to be so, since all arrive there
much exhausted and worn out by the voyage. There one begins anew to
deal with royal officials, to whom money must be given. Thus after we
have passed the ocean the torments begin, which have no mercy upon
those whom the ocean has many times spared. At that port it is very
necessary to have something left over from one's sea-stores, for
the expenses are very great in this country. The vicar must not be