shearing cut instead of a scraping cut. This rolling of the tool will
also throw the chips from the operator.


Then lift the handle slowly, forcing the cutting edge deep enough into
the wood to remove all or nearly all of the corners, at the end of the
work which is being turned. This cut is begun about 3/4" from the dead
center end. Work back another 3/4", moving toward the live center and
make a second cut, and so on until the entire length of the cylinder is
gone over. This method of removing corners should always be followed to
avoid any possibility of breaking a large sliver from the stock, with
consequent danger to the worker.

The tool may then be worked from one end to the other, getting a
fairly-smooth, regular surface, slightly above the diameter required.
However, do not begin on the very edge of the cylinder end. It is better
to begin about 2" from one end and work to the other, and then reverse
and work back.

The tool should also be held at a slight angle to the axis of the
cylinder, with the cutting point always in advance of the handle.

[Illustration: Fig. 5.]


2. THE SIZING CUT (SMALL GOUGE). FIG. 5.

Set the calipers to the required diameter of the cylinder.

With a small gouge held in the right hand scrape grooves about 1" apart,