[Illustration: Fig. 11.]

By this triple action the grind, which comes in contact with the surface
of the curve, forces the lip sidewise and cuts one quarter of a circle.
Reverse the position of the gouge and cut from the other side in the
same manner to form the other half of the semi-circle. The cutting
should always stop at the base of the cut as there is danger that the
tool will catch when cutting against the grain of the wood on the other
side. Repeat this operation until within about 1/16" of the required
size. At the end of each successive cut the tool should have been forced
far enough forward and upward to bring the grind or nose of the chisel
well out on top of the cut. Fig. 12.

The exact depth of the concave is then calipered in the usual manner as
described before. A finishing cut is then taken after the cut has been
tested with a templet.

[Illustration: Fig. 12.]


A-I--6-a. Convex Cuts

The convex cut, or Bead as it is usually called, is generally considered
the hardest cut to make.--The cut is made with the heel of a small skew
chisel, usually the 1/4" or 1/8".

After the cylinder has been marked off, rough out all stock between the
beads with a parting tool. The base of the cuts is finished the same as
described in Plate A-I--1-a, for shoulder cutting. With a sharp pencil
mark the center of each bead to be made. This line is the starting point