inquired of a passerby. I was told that it was 60 miles wide and 250
miles long. Could it be true? Was there anything in all of Europe to
equal it? I could not for the moment remember the extent of the Caspian
Sea. And I stood in wonder and delight.

As I left the dock for my walk I had observed the name _Illinois_ on a
boat that had all the appearances of being brand new. I walked leisurely
toward the dock so as to avoid the touters as much as possible while I
was overlooking the boat. I liked it, but would it take me to Chicago?
The gangplank was lying on the dock and near it stood what seemed to me
to be the captain and the pilot, around them touters and others. I edged
around to the captain and asked him if the _Illinois_ would take me to
Chicago. "In about an hour," he said with a laugh. Immediately I was
besieged by the runners to help me on, to get my baggage, to serve me in
all possible ways. I couldn't hire all of them. I chose one, who got my
valise for me, and I went aboard.

It was a new boat, and this was its maiden trip. All the stewards,
negroes, waiters were brisk and obliging, and bent on making the trip an
event. The captain gave parties. He was a bluff, kindly man, who mingled
much with favorite passengers. Wine flowed freely. The food was abundant
and delicious. We had dances by moonlight on the deck. A band played at
dinner and at night. The boat was distinguished for many quaint and
interesting characters. I enjoyed it all, but made no friends. I did not
understand this free and easy manner of life. The captain noted me, and
asked if I was well placed and comfortable. Various people opened
conversations with me. But I was shy, and I was English. I could not
unbend. I did not desire to do so.

We docked at Erie and at Cleveland, both small places. We came to