machine. Some japanners advocate the fluid being put on with camel-or
badger-hair brushes, and for the best descriptions of work, final
coats, and such like, I agree with them; but this is a detail which
can be left to the operator's own fancy, the class of work, etc.; but
I would remind him that applying enamel with a brush requires much
care and a certain amount of "knack". It is something like successful
lacquering in brasswork--it looks very simple, but is not. Each
succeeding coat of japan gives a more uniform and glossy surface, and
for this reason it may, in some cases, be necessary to repeat the
operation no fewer than half a dozen times, the final coat being
generally a layer of clear varnish only, to add to the lustre.

Care must be taken for light-coloured japans or enamels not to have
the temperature sufficiently high to scorch, or the surface will be
discoloured, as they require a lower temperature for fixing than the
dark japans, which, provided the article is not likely to be injured
by the heat, are usually dried at a somewhat high temperature. The
preceding instructions apply only to the best descriptions of work.

When pouring enamel by means of the ladle over pieces of work, do not
agitate the liquid too much--at the same time taking care to keep it
well mixed--so as to form air bubbles, as this will cause trouble, and
in pouring over the work do it with an easy and gentle and not too
hurried a motion. In japanning curved pieces, such as mud-guards,
etc., in hanging up the work in the oven see that the liquid does not
run to extremities and there form ugly blots or blotches of enamel.

When white or other light tones are used for japanning they are mixed
with japanners' varnish, and these require more careful heating in the
oven or stove than darker tints or brown or black.